For months I have been sewing an 1890’s day dress for my SIL, Margie, who volunteers at an Edwardian Mansion. Sewing the dress was disrupted significantly by our cross-country move and buying a new home but also because my SIL and I live miles apart. Admittedly I probably procrastinated a little, dreading the 20+ evenly spaced buttonholes on the dress front. When I finally tackled the buttonholes, it took less than an hour from the sample buttonhole to completing all 21 buttonholes. Best of all, the buttonholes were equal in length. It was so easy that I need to share this technique with you.
1. Make a sample buttonhole so you know long to make each buttonhole and of course to see if the stitch length needs to be adjusted.
2. Take the measurement for the buttonhole.
3. Machine-baste two vertical rows of stitching on the dress front (or the complete length of whatever garment you are working on), corresponding with the ends of the buttonhole. Going forward I will refer to these lines as “guide lines”
4. With a marking pen, make a horizontal line for each buttonhole, extending to each vertical line of stitching or guide line. (For me, marking was easy as the buttonholes were one inch apart).
5. Place a narrow strip of clear wash-a-way stabilizer over the buttonholes (this technique lifts the satin stitch out of the fabric resulting in a more finished look).
Sewing the Buttonholes – Staying Inside the Lines is the Key
Note: To give me more control, I turned off the automatic buttonhole setting.
1. Place your needle at your starting point for a buttonhole, barely touching the vertical stitching line – unlike Kindergarden, this isn’t a time to sew outside of the lines!
2. Stitch the first side of the buttonhole until the needle is just shy of the second guide line.
3. Bar tack (or make the wide end stitch)
4. Sew the second side of the buttonhole
5. Make the final bar tack, again staying just inside of the guide lines.
6. When you are finished with the first buttonhole, move right on to the next one without cutting the threads.
Before you know it you’ll have completed all of the buttonholes. When completed, clip the threads, remove the guide line stitches and the excess wash-away stabilizer. To remove the stabilizer I used an embroidery scissors. You can always dab some water on the stabilizer remains. Last of all, carefully cut the buttonholes and press.
What I learned:
1. By turning off the automatic buttonhole feature, I had complete control and could stop at exactly the desired point.
2. Sewing the buttonholes in such a short timeframe actually made it easier, as if I was on an assembly line.
3. Previously I have used strips of blue masking tape as a guide however the stitching line was much easier. Those little blue pieces of tape didn’t look good with all fabrics.
4. I liked making 21 buttonholes.
Give it a try