Where did all the Vintage Singers Go?

In case you’ve been in the market for an antique or vintage sewing machine and have been unable to find one, I know why.

Kevin and I spent this weekend in New York City.  On Monday morning after our visit to the 911 Memorial, we walked through Chinatown and up Broadway toward Soho.  In the midst of the shopping district we walked by Spitalfields; a store that usually wouldn’t catch my eye.  But given that there were about a hundred vintage or antique sewing machines in the window display, my interest was aroused.  We walked into the store and to my amazement, the walls of this otherwise uninteresting store were lined with rows and columns of these old beauties.  Most were Singers but there were a few Pfaffs, Whites or other less well-known brands.  There were also some old industrial machines and spools but neither were as interesting as the hundreds of sewing machines.

The back entrance

Many more than one could photograph……

Shamefully, I couldn’t see any attachments in the machine cases.

If you’re a sewing nerd like me, you’ll want to check it out sometime.

Scarves are all the Rage – in Spain

Scarves:  A fashion detail that continues to separate European and USA fashion.

Traveling in Europe reminds me of how much I love scarves.  No matter what time of the year, women (and some men) wear scarves for warmth and/or for fashion and with just about any type of attire.   I do wish this fashion trend would take hold in the US – we always have a little bit of the scarf thing going on the in the USA but it’s minor compared to what one sees when walking the streets of a western European country – especially France and Spain.

On our recent trip to Spain my travel mates took photos of the many beautiful tourist sites, but I took photos of scarves.  Here are a few of the lovelies.  Most are from markets, where prices are often several Euros.  Enjoy!

Double-click on photos to see more detail.

It would be so easy to sew one of these

Pashmina in its glory.

Crinkled fabric is all the rage. Maybe it's time to experiment?

For style and warmth

Beautiful lace with tassel trim

Which of these do you think we could sew?

DIY Travel Shirt / Adventure Shirt / Technical Shirt

When traveling, one of my staples is a travel/adventure/technical shirt.  Typically they are made from lightweight quick-drying fabric.  In recent years, some fabrics include sun protection.  Typical features of these shirts are zippered pockets and vents.  They are especially good for layering over a t-shirt or top, and because of the long sleeves they provide sun protection.  The good and the bad is that these shirts are durable and thus they never wear out.  Because I have always owned two, my travel photos are pretty boring – either I’m wearing the red shirt or the blue shirt.  Now you know where this is going……

Travel Shirt Tutorial

Starting with Vogue 8689, I made a few modifications and now have a shirt I’m really pleased with.  In the future, I’d like to make another (or two?)

Three major changes to the pattern made this shirt very functional as a travel shirt:  a vented back yoke, front zippered pocket and zippered side vents/pockets.  Following is a tutorial for each change.

Additional Supplies:

• 1/2 yard of mesh or other breathable fabric
• 3 invisible zippers – I used long zippers and cut them to the desired length.

Back Vent:

RTW technical/adventure shirts often have a vented yoke like this:

To make this change in your pattern you will cut:  a) one yoke from mesh fabric and b) one yoke from the fashion fabric, extending the length by 1″.

1.  Cut one yoke front he fashion fabric, extending the length by 2″ as in the following photo (I extended it by 3″ but ended up cutting off 1″).

2. Cut a back yoke from mesh fabric.

3.  Cut a diagonal from the upper part of the yoke, like this

4. Serge or zig-zag the diagonal edges.  

5. Sew the mesh to the lower back piece with the right side of the mesh against the wrong side of the lower back piece.

6. Top stitch close to the seam-line.

You are now ready to attach the fashion fabric yoke.

1. Finish the lower part of the fashion fabric yoke by turning the hem twice (1/2 to 5/8″ rolled hem).

2. With the shirt back and the yoke wrong side down, lay the yoke on top of the mesh, matching the edges.  Pin in place.

3.  Top stitch the yoke at each end (about 1″ of stitching) and at the middle (1.5 to 2″).  The remained of the yoke will not be attached to the lower back, allowing air to flow (i.e. venting).  The arrows on the following show the top-stitched areas.

Arrows show top-stitching position for back yoke

Front Zippered Pocket

1. When sewing the front yoke to the front bottom pieces, insert an invisible zipper into the seam.  The zipper should be ~1″ from each edge.  On a size 16 shirt, this made a 5″ opening for the pocket.

Note:  If you want more pockets, you could do this on both sides of the front.

2. Working on the wrong side of the fabric (to make the underside of the pocket), sew a 5-1/2″ by 5-1/2″ piece of mesh, to the bottom of the zipper tape.

3.  To make the upper pocket piece, sew a 5-1/2″ by 6-1/2″ piece of mesh to the upper zipper tape or seam allowance.  I zig-zagged the edges together.

4.  Pin the pocket pieces together.  Sew edges as in the following photo.  You will notice that on the pocket sides you are unable to sew all the way to the top however this won’t alter the functionality of the pocket.

5. Serge or finish the edges to your liking (I didn’t but if would look better if I’d taken the time to do it.

Zippered Side Vent and Pocket

1. Before sewing the side seam, place an invisible zipper into the seam, starting at least 1″ from the arms-eye.  At the lower edge, leave at least 4″.  (My zipper was 10″ long)

2. Sew the seam above and below the zipper.

3. Using a 10″ wide by 12″ long piece of mesh, sew each side of the mesh side to each side of the zipper tape to form a single piece which will become a vent and a pocket.

4.  Fold the vent/pocket toward the shirt front.

5.  Sew the front seam and the bottom seam of the vent/pocket.  Finish edges if desired.

6.  Run one more stitch approximately 4″ from the top of the vent/pocket.  I’m not sure if this is needed but my thought was that this line of stitching would form the pocket.

7.  Hand stitch the top and bottom edge of the vent/pocket to the front princess seam to keep it in place.

One more note:  Inadvertently, I placed one zipper with the pull at the top and one with the pull at the bottom.  When wearing the shirt I realized that both directions have advantages, so I’ll leave that choice to you.

Finished - combined vent/pocket

Of course, what does it matter if the garment isn’t functional.  This shirt worked so well that I wore it all the time, as you can see in the following photos (oh yes, and we had fun too).

Now, I need your feedback.

The World’s Most Comfortable Travel Skirt

Just having returned from several weeks in Spain, I’m still in the mode of thinking about travel clothing – what worked and what didn’t.  In the coming weeks I’ll share some tips on making travel clothes but for now I need to tell you about this travel skirt which is sooo comfortable.  

Initially I made it for our 2 month trip to Central America where it got a lot of wear. I liked it so much that although faded and somewhat worn, I took it on this trip to Spain.  Honestly, it’s the most comfortable skirt I’ve ever owned.  The inspiration came from a travel skirt on an internet site I can no longer find.   Essentially it is made of 6 panels with ruching on each side of the seams, made from woven cotton/poly with lycra.  This photo is a little better at showing the detail.

Materials:

• 1-1/2 to 2 yards of 45″ fabric or 1 yard of 60″ woven mid-weight fabric with lycra
• 1 yard of 1-1/4″ wide elastic
• 4-6 yards of 1/4″ elastic depending on skirt length
• Twill tie if desired

Tutorial:

1.  Before cutting or sewing, do a test with the elastic and a fabric scrap to determine the ration of elastic to fabric needed to create the desired ruching effect.  

2.  Cut six pieces of fabric 9-10″ longer than the finished length (mine was 30″ for a 20″ skirt).  For the width, use the following formula.

• Divide hip size by 6.
• For each piece, add 1-1/2″ for the seams and 1″ to create the puffy effect.
• If desired, you can flare slightly, making the lower part of the skirt wider.
• For 40″ hips, my panels were 30″ long by 10″ wide at the top and 11″ at the bottom.

Cut panels. Middle panel has elastic applied.

3.  Cut 12 pieces of elastic based on what you learned when you ran your test.  (My elastic pieces were about 18″ long)

4.  Serge or zig-zag edges to reduce raveling.

5.  Starting 2′ from the waist edge, stretch fabric while sewing to each side of panels, one inch from each edge.

Note:  You start 2″ from the top as ruching in the waistband makes it too bulky.

6.  Sew panels together with a 5/8 to 3/4″ seam.  Press the seams open although this is somewhat useless as the seams don’t lay flat.

7.  Repeat for all panels.

8.  Turn waistband over and sew 1-1/2″ from the edge.

9.  Insert elastic to desired length.

Note:  I also put a twill tie in the waistband but it’s not necessary.

10.  Turn over 5/8″ at the bottom edge for a hem.  Machine sew with a straight stitch.

11.  Because there aren’t pockets in this skirt, to have a secure place for my passport, add a travel security pocket on the inside.

You are done!  Roll it up and put it in your suitcase.

Spain: 3 Brothers, 1 Sister, 2 Cousins and 1 BIL

Not much blogging in the next several weeks as Kevin and I are traveling to Spain with some of his family. To be specific, our travel mates are 2 of Kevin’s brothers, (one is married to my cousin), his sister and her husband. We convinced all of them to travel light, only taking carry-on’s, and they all passed the minimalist travel test.

How to Sew Convertible (Zip-off) Pants: Tutorial

For by DH and me, zip-off pants fall into the category of “better than sliced bread”.  They offer an option to pack one less item when traveling and are great for day trips, especially during the fall when there are weather changes.  Then there’s the “petite” issue.  Rarely have I been fortunate enough find them in a size that doesn’t require alterations.   For Kevin, zip-off’s are easy to find but the configuration of pockets just hasn’t matched his preferences.   You know where this is going…..

Now that I have much more time to sew, I set off to make a pair of Kevin (shorts) and one pair (capris) for me.  After scouring the internet for a tutorial, I ended up purchasing out of print Kwik-Sew 2406 from an Etsy seller.  There may be other patterns available however I’ll save you the trouble.  All  you really need is a pants pattern and this tutorial.  

Preparation:

1. Pants pattern and fabric

2. Decide on where you want the zipper to fall on the pants.  i.e. above the knee, at the knee or below.

3.  Notions – snaps, additional zippers or cord.

4. Zippers – purchase one for the fly and 2 light to mid-weight separating zippers for the legs.  I used a 27″ zipper for Kevin’s knee-length pants but would reduce that to 26″ the next time.  For my capri-length pants I used a 18.5″ zipper.  Note:  Purchase zippers at the exact length if you can, or you can purchase a longer zipper than you need and reduce the size by removing and replacing the zipper stop.  Archer Zippers in NYC will cut zippers to your desired length – you will need to call them.  Their color palate is amazing.

Tutorial:

1.  Start with a pants pattern that fits well and which has fairly straight or wide legs.  Avoid fitted pants.

2.  Cut the pants from the pattern, cutting the upper legs 2″ longer than the desired length of the upper pant leg.  Note:  To accommodate the tapering of the sides when you turn up the hem, remember to cut an outward flare on the hem seam allowance.

• In addition to the pattern pieces, you will need 2 strips of fabric for the zipper guards.  Cut them the length of the zipper by 2-1/2″ wide (cut on the grain)
• Do not cut the lower legs at this time. (but do make sure you have enough fabric left for the lower leg pieces).

3.  Sew the pants.  Stop before finishing the hem.

4.  Overcast the hem edge.

5.  Turn the 1-7/8 hem to the inside and pin in place. (If you started with a 2″ hem, you likely lost 1/8″ when overcasting the edge.)

Zipper Application: 

Note:  If you need to cut your zipper, do not cut it until after you have completed the next step.

1.  Pin the zipper to the hem with the right side of the zipper facing the hem.

The zipper start and end:

• Should be at the inseam – zipping the pant legs is too difficult if the start is on the outside seam.
• Should barely meet. The zipper will not work if there is an overlap, but it is OK if you have a small gap between the start and the end.   Note:  Zippers will zip in opposite directions, as in the following photo.

Zippers pinned to the hem, going in opposite directions.

2. From the back side of the zipper, stitch the zipper to the upper leg, approximately 1″ from the bottom of the hem.

2.   You’re getting there.  Now you will stop sewing and cut the lower leg pieces from your remaining fabric.

Cutting the Lower Pants:

1. I would recommend that you make a pattern.  Measure at the line where you sewed the zipper to the hem of the upper leg, you need the top of the lower pants to be the exact circumference as this measurement. 

2.  Following the same taper as the upper leg, cut the lower leg pieces, adding 1″ to the top of each lower leg piece.

Making a pattern for the lower leg. Click to enlarge.

3.  Sew the sides of the legs together.

4.  To reduce the chance of making an error, mark the inseam and outer seam with your favorite marking tool.

5. Turn under 1/2″ at the top of each lower leg.  Pin or press in place.

6. Now pin the wrong side of the top edge of the lower leg to the right side of the zipper.

Pinning the lower leg to the zipper

7.  Carefully unzip the zipper.  Toss the pants aside for a few minutes.

8.  Check the pins to make sure the zipper is in place.  Folded edge of the lower leg should be close to the zipper teeth.

9.  Working from the right side, sew the lower leg to the zipper.

10.  Zip the lower to the upper leg to assure that it looks correct and to take pride in what you’ve done!

11.  Repeat with the other leg.

12.  Remove both lower legs in preparation for sewing the zipper guard.

Zipper Guard

You could probably stop at this point however all of the zip-off pants I’ve seen have a zipper guard on the inside.  I’m thinking this is for comfort.  It’s the last step and a fairly easy one, so pull out the two  2-1/2 by zipper length pieces of fabric.

1.  Check the zipper guard length against the zipper length to confirm that it is the same length.  If not, adjust.

2.  Fold the zipper guard in half lengthwise and overcast the edges.

Zipper guard

3.  Turn pants inside-out (remember, lower pants are removed).

4.  Pin the zipper guard to the inside of the zipper.  Cover the zipper and check to be sure that it is at least 1/4″ from the hemline (so it doesn’t show when wearing with the lower legs zipped off).  The zipper guard should meet at the ends rather than overlapping (creates bulk).

5. Turn pants right side out.  Removing pins as you go, sew 1/8″ from the zipper stitching line (the one you sewing back when you sewed the zipper into the pants).  You will sew through all layers of the fabric and the zipper.

Sewing the Zipper guard

Finished zip-off pants

My Capri Zip-off’s

I’d love to hear if this works for you.  What is missing in the tutorial?

Inside Pocket for Safe Travel

Over the years Kevin and I have had the good fortune of traveling to quite a few countries.  In terms of personal safety, I’d say we’ve experienced most segments of the continuum.  Or is safety a misconception?  Travel to any large city makes one a target for pick-pockets and other petty crime.  We’ve heard about it, witnessed it and more disturbingly, have been the victim of a skilled pick-pocket and have been robbed at gunpoint.

Our Central American trip earlier this year consisted primarily of countries that are wonderful to visit but on the low end of the personal safety continuum, so we had the opportunity to acquire vast knowledge on keeping valuables (passport, credit/debit cards, cash) safe during travel.  When gathering with seasoned travelers or staying in hostels, safety was consistently a topic of conversation as there was always someone who had a personal story or two.  While sparing you the details, I think we all agree that it’s important to keep one’s passport safe when traveling.

Money belts: Pro’s and Con’s

During our Central American trip both Kevin and I wore a lightweight money belt where we carried our passport, an extra credit card and most of the cash from the most recent ATM visit and a small amount in American dollars.  While  this is much safer than carrying these items in a small bag or purse (can be left behind) or in a wallet (eeks – easy target for a pick-pocket), we learned of another option.  The downside is that pick-pockets and thieves know that travelers wear money belts. On a few occasions we heard about travelers whose pockets and money belts were emptied.

Inside Travel Safety Pocket

The Alternative: Inside Safety Pocket

Joe T., whom we met in Guatemala and traveled with for a few days, fits into a category of his own.  For 40 years he’s traveled in Central and South America for 2-3 months each year, staying in hostels and lower end hotels.  When on the go, he keeps a low profile, carries few items of value and he doesn’t wear a money belt.  Instead for 40 years he’s had “an inner pocket” sewn into each of the pants he wears on the trip.  This is such a simple option.  After telling us about the pockets and learning that I sew, one evening he brought me a pair of his jeans so I could check it out.  

Pattern and Tutorial:

Materials:

• 7″x21″ strip of cotton or mesh fabric.
• 8″ strip of narrow elastic

1.  On one of the narrow ends, turn over 3/4″ of fabric to make a casing for the elastic.

2. Run one line of stitching to form the casing.  Note:  If using fabric which ravels, you may need to zig-zag or serge the edge. In these photos I use one fabric of each type to demonstrate the differences. 

3. Slip the elastic into the casing.

Making the elastic casing

4.  Stitch back and forth several times across the elastic to keep it in place.

5.  Pull on the unsecured end of the elastic to form a gather as in the next photo.  (Elastic should be 1″ shorter than the width of the pocket).

6.  Secure the second end of the elastic by stitching back and forth several times.

7.  Fold the fabric to form a pocket about 7-8″ long.

8.  Stitch the sides of the pocket, backstitching on both ends of the seam.  Note:  Very important to back-stitch to prevent the stitches from letting go on the first wearing!

9.  You are now ready to hand-sew the pocket into a pair of pants or a skirt.

Pocket Placement

The pocket should be on the inside of the existing front pocket of the pants (or skirt) and at least several inches from the waist of the pants.  When in public the pocket will not be accessible to either the wearer or a would-be thief. 

Hand-sewing the Pocket into Pants or Skirt

1.  Fold over 3/4″ on the top edge.

2.  Pin in place

3. Hand sew with a double-strand of thread using small stitches.

You are done!  Travel safe.

The Traje in Guatemala

It’s now been months since we were in Guatemala, but as you can tell by my posts, I continue to be fascinated by the culture.  By no means am I an expert on the “traje”; that is the traditional clothing worn by Mayan women and girls in Guatemala however I’d like to share the little bit that I know. As a fabric lover, it is captivating to see the variety of beautiful fabrics and the proud manner in which women wear their traje.

With her Mother at a Craft Market (Antigua)

Coban: Traje Store

In a previous post I wrote that women of Guatemala literally wear their culture on their backs.  Unlike other countries where traditional clothing is a cultural marker and where the clothing is worn only for special occasions, in Guatemala there are large numbers of women or girls who wear traditional clothing for daily life.  Of course there are also women who also wear the traje only on special occasions.  From what I could see, the clothing for special occasions does not differ in style from what was worn for daily use.

Selling fruit at the Market

Typical dress in Coban

Even after seeing several photos of women in traditional clothing, you may notice the different skirt and top styles.  Each community has a style which is unique to that area.  For example, in the north (specifically Coban), women wear gathered skirts and lacy tops such as the preceding photo.  On the other hand, in a cooler area such as Santiago Atitlan, the blouses are made of fairly heavy cotton which is then embroidered with birds such as the following photo.

Santiago Atitlan: Typical Blouse

 In Antigua and the Lake Atitlan area, skirts are made from a large panel of fabric tied at the waist with a wide hand embroidered belt.  The fabric is made by women in their homes – densely woven Guatemalan cotton in a variety of plaid designs, which also vary by region.   Like backstrap weaving, fabric weaving is one of the ways in which women stay connected to their culture.

San Juan: Schoolgirls in the Traje

Weaving Loom for Skirt Fabric

Fabric for Traje skirts

Lace only fabric store: San Pedro

In the following photo, I love the hair ribbons woven into the braid.  In Quetzaltenango the skirts are full and have an embroidered band at the knee.  You can also see the hand-woven shawl resting on the woman’s shoulder.

Waiting for the Bride: Quetzaltenango

Not surprisingly in this craft-based economy, many of the garments are hand-sewed and embroidered by family members.  I’m not sure about the cost of blouse fabric but we were told that a skirt-length panel of woven fabric costs $40-$80, incredibly expensive in a very poor country.

What about men?

Unlike Mayan women, it is uncommon to see men wearing their traditional garments.  I was able to capture one example in San Pedro – wool pants with embroidery.  Like with the garments worn by females, the designs vary by community.

Traditional pants: San Pedro

Guatemalan Handicrafts: Backstrap Weaving

Backstrap weaving while tending the store

There are a number of handcrafts which are familiar to anyone who has traveled to Guatemala; the  most common are weaving and embroidery.  Weaving takes a number of forms but for now I’ll just talk about my favorite.  Backstrap weaving is a craft and an art-form but more importantly for women of Mayan descent, it is an ancient tradition carried on from pre-Columbian times, a ritual and a means of maintaining cultural identity in a country where Mayan cultural traditions are devalued by the ruling minority.  

As a visitor to this country and a lover of “all things fiber”, it is enthralling to see so many people embrace their culture.  In fact, there is likely no other country in the world where people (mostly women) literally wear their culture on their back.  

Selling Guatemalan handicrafts: Chichicostonango Market Day

Backstrap Weaving

Sitting on the floor with a strap behind one’s back, the other end of the strap is tied to a post or tree, the weaver creates a design often from memory, by passing a shuttle from side to side.  The maximum width is 14-15″ and the length has no limits. With a 15″ width there is a huge amount of pressure on the back of the weaver.  One of my Spanish maestro’s told me that because of back pressure from the strap, it is common for backstrap weavers to have serious back problems in later life.  There is a Guatemalan cotton and dying market to keep weavers supplied with yarn – grown, processed and dyed in Guatemala.  On this visit we also saw some shiny yarn in markets, which I think is rayon.

Weaving yarn for sale in the local market

It is important to mention that backstrap weaving is not  unique to Guatemala.  What makes it important in this country is the cultural significance.  

In areas where tourism is well-developed, the markets are filled beautiful table runners, scarves, purses and other woven items.  For a 15×80″ table runner such as those in the following photo, weaving time is approximately one month.  In the markets or from street vendors where there isn’t a middleman, these weavings cost approximately $30 – I don’t want to know the hourly wage.

Close-up of 15x80" runner

Catarina

At the ICA Spanish School in Xela, Catarina visited several days each week to sell her crafts (and likely those made by other family members or friends) to the ~25 students at the school.  While this was a pretty small market, it was also an opportunity for Catarina to learn to speak English and to engage with English-speakers.  And engage she did.  She was incredibly proud of her work and she was one of the loveliest people we met during our one month in Guatemala.

Note:  Most people of Mayan descent speak their native Indian language and Spanish (national language).  English is usually limited to whatever is required to speak with or sell goods to tourists.

Of course, she was the person from whom I would purchase my weavings.  This deep blue table scarf is 14×24″ and is made with blue cotton and the white shiny yarn I mentioned above.  It’s really quite striking and it makes me think of lovely Catarina.

If you have the opportunity to see Guatemalan handicrafts, I’m hoping that this brief description will make you appreciate the incredible amount of work that goes into the finished product.

Eeks! Suicide Showers

One of the most fascinating parts of our recent trip to Central America was the daily shower.  We had been warned about cold showers which are OK in a tropical climate but certainly not in 60 or 70 degree weather.  Here’s a little information about our “shower” experience.  Before I complain too much, this was in large part an outcome of our decision to stay in hostels or small inexpensive hotels.

Cold Showers

As a person who loves a very warm shower, I never thought it was humanly possible to enjoy a cold shower.  When I say “cold”, I mean that the water is the temperature of the public water system or whatever type of storage or holding tank is the source for the water, but for me that’s still a “cold shower”.  In Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama and Cartagena, there were no tears shed at shower time because it was 95 degrees outside – even I will admit that a cooler shower felt good.  To sum it up, we traveled for a full month without a warm shower.  I am still in disbelief that I survived it.

The Alternative Shower

We had so many experiences which are incredibly innovative – often out of need – I think there are quite a few lessons we N. Americans could learn if we could get over the thinking that environmentally conscious solutions would take us a step backward.  For example, when it comes to warm showers, there is an alternative to water heaters which run constantly and burn gas or electricity.  A “suicide shower” is a solution we could adopt.  In fact, here’s a photo of some of the options:

Intrigued and want to learn more?

 Often called “suicide showers” by travelers, these showers have a single cold water line coming into the device (in fact, most homes didnn’t have a hot water line, even in the kitchen).  As you can see, the “super ducha’s” are available in a variety of sizes and shapes – some have a wider shower head (but none of them have a Holiday Inn style smart spray!)  A small pea-can sized heater within the shower head warms the water immediately when the faucet is turned on.  There is one caveat – with a small stream of water, the temperature is nice and warm however a higher velocity resulted in cooler water.  On average, the water was warm.

So why the name?  The first time we encountered one of these strange-looking devices, I turned on the water and sparks flew.  It didn’t take an electrical engineer to figure out that I shouldn’t step in.  Instead, I notified the hotel staff and soon a workman came to rewire the shower, which looked something the one below but with more dangling wires.  As we met more travelers, we learned that my experience was quite common.

In one of our homestays, we showered under this modern beauty:

Last of all I want to mention that these showers are no reason to stay away from Central America as a travel destination, in fact it’s one of the dozens of experiences that make it a wonderful travel destination.