It’s prom time and one of my dear nieces asked me to hem and alter her dress and to sew a really puffy petticoat for under the dress. Absolutely beautiful and a skirt of yards of tulle.
The first and most time consuming step was to remove and replace about half of the lace applique and bead-sequin trim. While this took time, it was straight forward. On the other hand, I knew that hemming the tulle was a once and done affair. If not done correctly the first time, removing stitches would result in damaged tulle. Here’s what the hem looked like originally – a narrow turned over hem.
As you can see, it wasn’t sewed all that well when the garment was manufactured. It was turned over twice and sewed close to the edge. Originally my plan was to repeat that process after the dress was cut to the desired length. Fate changed that plan.
On the day that I was finishing the dress alterations, one of my sewing friends came to my house to see how a serger works. One of the finishes I showed her was a rolled hem. Immediately I realized that’s what I should use for the hem. Why hadn’t I previously thought of this? The result was a beautifully finished rolled hem.
How to Serge a Rolled Hem
While this process will vary slightly by serger, the general process is the same.
1. Remove the left needle.
2. Thread the right needle and the upper and lower looper with thread that matches the fabric.
Note: Because of the limited serger thread color selection, I used one spool of regular sewing thread and wound 2 bobbins in the same color.
3. Set to a very narrow stitch width.
4. Set stitch length to a very short stitch – some sergers have rolled hem settings.
5. Disengage the cutting blade.
6. Place cut edge ~1/16″ to the right of the right needle. This part will turn under and will disappear into the rolled hem
7. Sew a sample one the fabric you’re hemming.
Note: The fabric should not pull or ruffle the edge.
8. Adjust tension as needed.
Note: This is the part that varies by machine so it’s difficult to provide specific directions.
The result is an amazingly beautiful hem and it takes only minutes to complete. I was so thankful that I remembered to use this finishing method, which would work equally well for chiffon, crepe or many other fabrics.
Settings for a Baby Lock Evolve (or similar serger)
- Remove left or Overlock 1 needle
- Disengage cutting knife
- Stitch width 3.5
- Stitch Length 1.5R (Rolled hem setting)
- Stitch Selector - D
- Upper Looper Selector – Up position
- Tension – no settings as this is automatic on an Evolve